Finding the Right Face

This post continues a concept brought up previously – honne/tatemae. Like this author, I too, would be perplexed if I had been invited to a friend’s house, only to never be able to arrange a date. As someone who loves to share my baked goods, I want to know if you didn’t like something. Gushing “it’s delicious!” after the food barely touches your mouth would deeply offend me. Are you saying it because you’re just being polite or do you really mean it?

For the Japanese, it can most definitely be that they’re just being polite.  The concept of honne/tatemae is not unique to just Japan, but in Japan there’s an instinctual tolerance of not telling the truth. This behaviour is justified by some as a way to avoid conflict, maintain group harmony or “save face”. However it can be more negatively viewed in light of a Japanese axiom, uso mo hōben, meaning “lying is also a means to an end”. By telling people what they want to hear, you can gain support or deflect criticism and responsibility.

For those accustomed to conveying information directly, it can be shocking or upsetting to discover that you have been lied to. A tatemae face can create misunderstanding, conflict and a feeling of being betrayed. If you try to fit in, the swallowing of emotions and egos may quickly become unbearable.

To not offend people when visiting Japan, it’d be wise to be aware of the practise of tatemae. Understand that, as a foreigner, it will be used on you. To maintain your own peace-of-mind, try to see the mask as put-on for your benefit. If you really want a glimpse of the honne, you could participate in some drinking. It’s reputed to break social barriers and bridge the gap between honne and tatemae.

Would you like my help, Tokyo?

Like any city, Tokyo has its own unique problems. With a population of over 13 million, it has one of the greatest population densities of any megacity. Though people don’t live in slums, housing is extremely crowded. Tokyo’s youth are lonely and the elderly face extreme isolation. Tokyo also has its share of orphans, homelessness and poverty.

What could a well-meaning traveller do to ‘help’? I recognise how unqualified and ill-equipped I am. I will graduate with a Bachelor of Science, majoring in chemical physics.  I’m not an engineer, nurse, English-teacher or child-care specialist. Unable to speak Japanese, it’d be difficult not to be a nuisance. It might not even be worth the hours training me to get started on a charity effort if I’m not going to be around long.

There are some opportunities in Tokyo for non-Japanese-speaking volunteers at charities/NPOs such as these. FEW, an organisation for empowering women, has a handy community service directory. A bit of searching also reveals a Social Innovation Japan Meetup group, with past events that include plogging – jogging while picking up litter.

With few relevant skills to bring and limited time commitment, it’s best to have low expectations. I have transferrable skills such as time-management, planning and team work. It’s not glamorous, but behind the scenes there’s always various admin/office work to do to keep an organisation running, and that free up valuable time for skilled workers to undertake more meaningful tasks. Fundraising events need people to set up and pack up. Besides preparing meals, Second Harvest needs people to pack their pantries. To spread their vision of equal human rights, Amnesty International Japan requires envelope-stuffers.

There is a difference between alleviating my own bad consciences and genuinely making a lasting social impact. Realistically, donating or spending money meaningfully to support people who need it, are likely the best ways to help.

Instead of this…

Could I come back in the future, where perhaps I’m designing innovative solar cells, to help make more enduring contributions to Tokyo?

 

“The world’s most beautiful hospitality of Japan, Omotenashi!”

The Japanese are well-known for their excellent service and politeness. Many travellers to Tokyo come back with stories of unfailingly courteous taxi drivers, attentive shop clerks and theservice staff that anticipate and fulfil requests in advance. This concept of selfless hospitality, called omotenashi, is even promoted as one of the key experiences of Japan’s “unique culture” to be discovered by tourists. Stemming from a mindset of “the customer is God”, how could such hospitality be unappreciated?

To some, Japan’s consummate customer service brings not amazement, but rather discomfort. Unfailing politeness may seem excessive and unnatural, and can leave you questioning the genuineness of the Japanese. If you see the Japanese being less-than-polite, such as on trains and subways, it may jar with preconceived ideas, and lead to the conclusion that the Japanese are disingenuous. After all, the word omote, which prefixes omotenashi, means front, and is used in phrases such as “putting up a front”. However, this would be an unfair assessment.

Two concepts important to understanding Japanese culture are uchi/soto and honne/tatemae. Uchi means inside, while soto means outside. Honne means one’s true opinions, whereas tatemae means, in a sense, pretense or façade. There is a sharp distinction between inner and outer circles. With an uchi group one can express honne, but soto situations firmly require tatemae to ensure an amiable atmosphere. Foreigners and tourists are always soto and as such, are treated with formalised etiquette.

From a Westerner’s perspective, honne/tatemae may be viewed negatively as hypocritical. However, for the Japanese, it is employed to maintain harmony in social situations and to avoid conflict. The concept of omotenashi is complex and is influenced by core values that encourage group dependency, empathy and hierarchy. It is not a recent development as a response to tourism to the country, though it is constantly being shaped by it. So as travellers, it would be beneficial to remember that it is not always about pleasing us.  

Stick it to The Man

Some stickers are small. Some are the size of a child. All of them contain a message of political protest.

Though they may only last a few days before being taken down or covered, there have been thousands stuck all over Tokyo. They are the artwork of a man who wishes to only be identified as 281_ Anti Nuke. He is forty-something, a Tokyo resident, and a father.

281_ Anti Nuke’s stickers were triggered by the Fukushima nuclear disaster on 11 March 2011. It was the worst nuclear accident in a generation, since Chernobyl. The causes of the accident at the nuclear power plant were found to be foreseeable, and the plant failures could have been prevented or greatly reduced. However, the operator, Tokyo Electric Power Company (TEPCO), had failed to meet basic safety requirements.

Not long after the event, through government hush-up efforts and an apathetic public spirit, the Japanese people were forgetting the tragedy. 281 was appalled by the lack of public outroar, so he made it his mission to communicate the problem of government propaganda and an increasingly right-wing government.

The “I hate rain” series has been one of 281’s most popular, and features a young girl in a raincoat to presumably protect her from nuclear fallout. There have been over 160 variations and some may still be found in eclectic locations around Tokyo. It is a simple yet powerful reminder of the dangers of nuclear power.

Whilst his stickers have been exhibited in the US and a documentary film about them have been made, they are certainly not being promoted in Tokyo as a tourist attraction, not even an “unofficial” one, especially since the Japanese society is in general a conformist one. The repercussions for anyone who tried to do so would be dire.

 

Otaku isn’t just Japanese for “nerd”

The Japanese term “otaku” can be crudely defined as people with obsessive interests. But it is more than a simple hobby – it is a way of life and a symbol of Japanese society. The otaku subculture is rich and encompasses a wide variety of interests, from anime and manga to idols and video games.

The subculture began in the 1980s and is a result of the distinctly Japanese school system and society, and coincided with the anime boom. In Japan, an individual’s value is largely based on their professional success. With a culture of long working hours, the overworked, underpaid or unemployed found comfort in their fictional worlds, centring their lifestyles on their interests.

A description of the otaku as “Japan’s socially inept but often brilliant technological shut-ins” (Wired, 1993) has pervaded the imaginations of both the Japanese and non-Japanese. The otaku gained infamy in 1989 when 27-year-old Tsutomu Miyazaki was charged with the attempted molestation of a schoolgirl and the murder of four young girls. A collection of 5,763 videotapes were found in his home, including anime and slasher films, leading to the media labelling him as “The Otaku Murderer”. The figure of Miyazaki helped perpetuate the perception of otaku as reclusive, self-absorbed and anti-social.

Today, the otaku are seen in a more positive light, and “otaku-ness” is embraced with pride. Tokyo’s Akihabara is famous for embodying everything manga, anime, electronics and games. The district’s distinctive imagery reflects the interests of otaku, and frequent festivals welcome fans. Akihabara is also a destination for tourists, with maid cafes being particularly popular.

The otaku are no longer confined to the image of the obsessive, withdrawn loner. Although the anti-social stereotype may never dissipate, otakus can now be the ardent, passionate expert surrounded by a supportive, strong community.

A brightly dressed cosplayer masquerading as their favourite anime character is an instantly recognisable symbol of Japanese culture. Though seemingly mundane now, anime fans were once considered part of the counter-culture.

 

 

About Me

Have you ever asked yourself:

“Is there more to life than what I’m living?”

“Can I lose myself in order to find myself anew?”

“How do I slow time down and see the world more clearly?”

Yes? Then you and I have something in common.

My name is Angela Keyte and I’m a dreamer, traveller, daughter, sister and optimistic fool. I’m forever in pursuit of the perfect chocolate cake recipe, and cooking up my next travel adventures.

This quote by Pico Iyer sums up my love of travelling:

“…we travel, in essence, to become young fools again – to slow time down and get taken in, and fall in love once more.”

By travelling, I hope to remind myself of my infinitesimal insignificance, to calibrate my values and to fuel the desire to leave a positive impact on the world.

Japan hasn’t been a place that I’ve always wanted to go to. It was a spur-of-the-moment decision to travel there, triggered by a bout of procrastination. Now that I’ve bought the tickets and committed, I thought that it’d be a good idea to inform myself about the country, its people and its culture, in order to enrich my experience. On this blog I’ll focus on Tokyo, since I’ll be spending most of my time there.

I want to look at Tokyo with a second glance. There’s plenty surface-level about the city worth discussing. But what truly fascinates me are the stories that are hidden below the surface. Perhaps subconsciously you know they’re there, but because you’re exposed to them so often, you’ve previously paid them little attention. Or, maybe it’s a secret that’s been actively hidden.

Either way, if this sounds up your alley, then let’s explore Tokyo together!

Me! And my first durian (Malaysia)